It's a foamy, light-alcohol beer found mostly in northern Vietnam. Made
fresh each day with few preservatives, the dregs are chucked down the
gutter at close of business each day.
This quick turnover and easy brewing means it's exceptionally cheap --
about 20 cents a glass, though Vietnam's rapid inflation may see that
rise before publication -- and the establishments that serve it are also
relatively basic.
1. Bia hoi is cheaper
Far, far cheaper than its Czech-inspired counterpart. Though both cost
peanuts compared to most places back home, there's a certain
satisfaction in knowing your dozen beers cost only US$3.
2. People are friendlier
It's a rare night you'll spend with friends clustered round the
low-slung plastic stools of a bia hoi where some blinking, red-faced
bloke won't lurch up to your table to repeatedly grasp your hand and
yell, "Helloo! Hello! Helloh?" then invite you to join his mates for
some rounds of cheap, rice-based spirits.
3. You can relax
Smoking, slurping, dumping chicken bones on the floor -- all are acceptable behavior here. Nay, they're encouraged.
4. The food
Some bia hoi's serve execrable rubbish, but plenty serve excellent,
freshly prepared dishes for very little cost. Banana flower salad (nom
hoa chuoi), barbecued chicken (ga nuong) and fried rice (com rang) are
stalwarts. Just watch out for the mixed hotpot (lau thap cam) or pig
stomach (da day).
5. Interesting local spirits
Vodka Hanoi (cheap, rice-based vodka with a slightly greasy aftertaste)
is a standard but many places also stock ruou ong den -- rice wine
infused with the whole bees' nest, not just the nectar -- or ruou dua,
rice wine left to ferment in a coconut shell (it tastes a hell of a lot
better than Malibu, believe us).
The hangover's never worth it, mind.
6. Street life
Usually these beer barns are open-walled and tables and chairs often
spill onto the street. You may get a lungful of motorbike exhaust with
your fried spinach, but you get a nice view as well. Others back onto
lakes or parks, or the Mausoleum.
7. Watery, weak, but unique
It's rare in the south but unheard of in the rest of the world. Fresh,
brewed daily and cheaper than any other beer, anywhere. That has to
count for something in a world of generic, international brands. And
it's no more watery than Bud or Coors, anyway.
8. Colonial heritage
Think of this: the French colonial oppressors brought bia to Vietnam to
stop people wrecking themselves on dodgy rice spirit. This is where bia
hois originally came from. The pilsner beer halls are a result of
people studying in former communist nations back in the days when
everyone still knew the words to the Internationale. But the leftovers
of colonial rule -- the bia hois -- are still working men’s brew halls
while the results of the egalitarian international brotherhood are there
mostly for the rapidly emerging middle class.
9. It's egalitarian
Bia hoi gets more egalitarian yet. A bia hoi can be nothing more than a
tiny grandmother sat roadside with a table, chairs, a keg and a few
glasses. Using technology no more complicated than a rubber pipe she
sucks some frothy beer from the keg, so you can usually have a drink
morning, noon or night. As Vietnam modernizes, beer for breakfast has
become less common, but it was once a grand tradition.
10. No hangover
Though some drinkers will vehemently disagree, bia hoi doesn't usually
leave you with a pounding hangover. It's low alcohol content means it
takes a concerted effort to get drunk enough to feel dreadful the next
day. Most problems come from people getting a stale batch, something you
have to watch out for. Drinking at busy places is a better idea.
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